We get that static grounding can be overwhelming.  Particularly since there are no good guidelines in the industry for which thing to use when.  OSHA and NFPA regulations require you to do it, but don't say how to do it.  Let's help cut through the confusion with a quick decision guide on which static grounding clamp to choose. 

The best way to think about which static grounding clamp to use is to think about the application.  What kind of things will you be grounding?  What is the environment in which the static grounding is happening?  What is the process you are using?

Remember, you always want to be draining static electricity off of metal containers.  Plastic containers won't give up static very easily until it's too late and they discharge the static in a spark.  Check out the Static bonding and grounding primer for great background.

Grounding drums, barrels, mixing containers

For these applications, you want to use a clamp that has sharp teeth and a strong grip, but is the right size for easy use and economical purchasing.  The REB clamp is perfectly sized and designed exactly for this application.  This is the clamp that you will need for 90% of the static grounding requirements out there.

You can buy the REB clamp by itself if you already have the grounding cable or assembly to drain the static away.  Just click on the picture to the right.

You can also buy the REB clamp in a full assembly ready to use, or on a static grounding reel.

Grounding trucks or rail cars

For grounding larger equipment such as trucks or rail cars, you will once again want to use a strong clamp with sharp points to get through the dirt, paint and rust that you will find on outdoor vehicles.  The REB won't work well as the jaws don't open up enough to get around struts or other pieces of structural metal on these vehicles.

Your best bet is either the GAT clamp (our most popular large clamp - see right) or the G40.  Both of these also come with options for static ground monitoring systems.

Grounding aircraft

Aircraft need to be grounded as jet fuel is incredibly flammable and the process of refueling a plane creates a lot of static electricity.  Unlike drums, trucks or railcars though, aircraft are made of very soft metal to reduce their weight.  So using an REB or GAT type clamp with sharp teeth will result in an airplane full of holes.  Instead, use the ALS-10A ( MIL-SPEC M83413/7-1 ), which has some non sharp teeth embedded on a curved surface to allow for easy grip onto unpainted landing struts.

Grounding FIBC Type C "supersacks"

In very rare occasions you'll need to use a sack to transport static generating materials.  The recommended style is the FIBC Type C Supersack, which is available from several sources with a quick internet search.  The Type C supersacks come with interwoven electrical conducting fibres, that have tabs on the end of them to drain generated static electricity. 

The ALS10B clamps are designed for this application - holding onto the tabs on the Type C supersacks and draining the static.

Wait - you didn't mention alligator clips or battery clips.  How come?

Quite frankly, we don't love alligator clips for most static grounding applications.  And we don't like battery clips (jumper cables) for ANY static grounding applications.  Battery clips were not designed to have the strength to hold on during any activity, and they don't have strong enough spring strength to punch the teeth through paint, dirt or rust to get a good metal to metal contact.

However, we concede that on some applications where you are grounding indoors on unpainted surfaces that alligator clips will work just fine.  We just caution you that you really need to be sure the surfaces are unpainted and not dirty and won't get that way through the normal course of operations.  Or else the alligator clips won't work and you won't know until too late.